Today we visited Ranthambhore National Park. This was a much anticipated day by everyone in our tour group because Ranthambhore National Park is a tiger reserve and is part of Project Tiger, a program designed to protect wild tigers in India. We were to have two tiger safaris today, one from 6:45 a.m. until about 10:30 and the second one from 2:00 to 5:30. We were all hoping against hope to be fortunate enough to see a tiger as Ranthambhore covers 400 square kilometers and there are only around 60 tigers in the entire park. You have about a 20-percent chance of hitting pay dirt and actually seeing one of these elusive beauties, but we were more than willing to try to buck those odds. So at 6:45 sharp, we were off. Now, so far the temperatures in India have been mild to warm, anywhere from mid 70s to low 80s during the day and dropping into the 50s at night. Until we came here. In Ranthambhore the temps drop down into the 40s at night. We were expecting this. That’s why we all dragged packable puffer jackets, scarves and wool socks to a country where winter feels like summer. What we did not really bargain for is the fact that you’re riding in an open-air safari vehicle for hours, and that wind is cold, baby. Really cold. We’re talking Jack-Frost-is-nipping-at-your-nose-and-then-bites-it-off kind of cold. With wind chill, it’s about 20 degrees. Yikes! (Although the fact that our tour guide was handing out blankets to everyone as they boarded the vehicle should have tipped us off as to what was in store.) When our safari vehicle stopped to pay the entrance fee and the usual assortment of Indian hucksters approached our vehicle with a selection of hats and gloves, many of us jumped on it. I was never so glad to see a huckster in my whole life! Thus properly hatted, gloved and blanketed, we were off for our safari adventure.
A photo of our safari vehicle
Our first wildlife sighting happened at the first gate to the park. We had to stop so our guide could get permission to enter the park. Above us in the trees was a band of gray langur monkeys. Awww, what cute little monkeys! We were all busily snapping pictures and making kissy-kissy sounds to attract their attention. Jill says, “They're so cute. I wish one would jump into the truck!” I said, "No, you don't." Two minutes later, this poor woman from Peru sitting in the front seat reached into her purse to pull out a packet of tissues and this is what happened:
This bold stinker jumped out of the tree, landed on the rail of the vehicle and literally reached down and ripped the packet of tissues from this poor woman's hands. I think he even rummaged through her purse. Then he ripped open the tissue packet with his teeth and took a bite of the tissues. When he realized it wasn't food, he chucked it on the ground and made good his escape.
Safari lesson number one: Never trust a monkey, even if he's cute.
Safari lesson number two: If a monkey steals your tissues, you ain't getting them back.
We drove on through this amazing national park in the freezing cold looking for tigers and initially bypassing all other wildlife because tigers are nocturnal and the best time to try to see one is early in the morning while they are still active.
Safari lesson number three: Blow past all the amazing, unique wildlife standing in easy sight along the side of the road and find that tiger!!! It's the only thing that matters!
Suddenly, our guide had our driver come to a screeching halt. Look! Fresh tiger tracks!! There must be a tiger nearby!!
So the chase was on! We were soooo excited! We were going to see a tiger! Off we went, sure that Tony the Tiger was going to be just around the next bend. Except he wasn't around the next bend. Or any other bend that our vehicle went around, for that matter.
Safari lesson number four: Fresh tiger tracks = suckers!!!
So finally after braving the cold and sucking in dust for hours, we slowed down enough to see some of the beautiful park and amazing wildlife around us.
Indian cactus
Banyan tree
Banyan tree
The peacock is India's national bird
A female sambar, the largest deer in India - aka a tiger's favorite food
A male sambar
A peahen
Langur monkey
Langur monkey and baby
Langur monkey
Kingfisher
Wild boar
Crocodile
Deer
Rhesus macaque
Mongoose - aka Riki Tiki Tavi
Owl
Male spotte deer
Mama and baby spotted deer
So as you can see, it was not a wasted trip into the park. The park is beautiful, the wildlife amazing, and the photo ops limitless. Our guide checked in at the exit gate on our way back to the hotel - no other groups in the park had seen a tiger this morning either. We were all feeling pretty good about it all - until the other half of our group who had gone in a different vehicle with a different guide came back to the hotel and showed us the amazing National-Geographic-worthy videos and pictures of not only a tiger drinking at a watering hole for several minutes in plain view but also a cheetah just walking along beside the road. Now, mind you, we were all happy and excited for the other half of our tourmates. It was totally awesome that they got to see a tiger and a cheetah! What was galling in the extreme is that our guide had originally said that when we left the park, we would go slowly through the area where we had first found the tiger tracks because the tiger was no doubt still in the area. However, when the time came for us to leave the park for the morning, he had the driver beat it out of there like the park police were on his tail. Just a few moments later, the other half of our group came ambling through the same area nice and slowly and they had the tiger/cheetah sighting of a lifetime. Yeah, I'm still a little steamed about the whole thing.
Safari lesson number five: When the other group comes back bragging about their incredible tiger/cheetah sightings, bite your tongue, turn that frown upside down and don't lunge for your tour guide. Dead men don't lead afternoon safaris.
After lunch, we got our second crack at finding a tiger. Back into the park we went for our afternoon safari, but this time we went through a different area. It was the roughest road ever - so rough that my mom and Jill and I were catching air every few feet in some places. We rocked and rolled over this crazy terrain for three hours, hoping, praying for a tiger sighting, but no dice. Man, we were so bummed as we headed back towards the park exit! And then suddenly, it happened. Up ahead several safari vehicles had stopped dead in their tracks. As we pulled up, our guide noticed a deer standing rigidly still. There must be a tiger nearby! Then we heard the deer give alarm calls. The tiger must be getting closer!! We waited. And we waited. Here, kitty, kitty! No dice. After many minutes, our guide informed us that we would have to leave. We have to be out of the park by 5:30 or guide and driver will be banned from working in the park for a month. So close, and yet so far away!!!!!!!! As we ambled down the track, our hearts plummeting, suddenly the driver jammed on the breaks and our guide went nuts - he saw the tiger!!!! Where? Where?!?!?!?! The excitement was overwhelming as everyone scrambled to find the tiger in the tall grass. And finally, finally, there he was.
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